Tuesday, September 16, 2014

A Followup on Eckhart Tolle and Ego

Today feels like a day with no sound. Of course, as I type this I can hear my neighbor singing. I guess that's nice. I'm having one of those just put one foot in front of the other days and that makes it seem like all I can focus on is what's before me and not what's going on around. 

What's in front of me now is Eckhart Tolle's book about ego. I'm actually finally reading it!  Although, I'm surprised because he almost lost me at the start with tightly packed sentences with great meaning and short history lessons. I'm used to reading stories lately. I actually couldn't believe I had read six whole pages when I first started and was convinced that the Table of Contents must have been numbered if I was already that far along, but I'm making my way through it: slowly, slowly, and trying to understand each line as much as I can right now. 

Since I mentioned some thoughts about ego here, I thought I'd share some of the notes I took from the book so far, in case anyone is interested. Here they are:

-"The human mind is highly intelligent. Yet its very intelligence is tainted by madness."

-"The greatest achievement of humanity is not its works of art, science or technology, but the recognition of its own dysfunction, its own madness. "

-"You do not become good by trying to be good, but by finding the goodness that is already within you, and allowing that goodness to emerge. But it can only emerge if something fundamental changes in your state of consciousness."

-"Words, no matter whether they are vocalized and made into sounds or remain unspoken as thoughts, can cast an almost hypnotic spell upon you. You easily lose yourself in them, become hypnotized into implicitly believing that when you have attached a word to something, you know what it is. The fact is: You don't know what it is. You have only covered up the mystery with a label. Everything, a bird, a tree, even a simple stone, and certainly a human being, is ultimately unknowable. This is because it has unfathomable depth."

 -"Of course we have to use words and thoughts. They have their own beauty--but do we need to become imprisoned in them?"

-"The greatest miracle is the experiencing of your essential self as prior to any words, thoughts, mental labels, and images."

-"Language consists of five basic sounds produced by vocal cords...Do you believe some combination of such basic sounds could ever explain who you are, or the ultimate purpose of the universe, or even what a tree or stone is in its depth?" 

my mom's list of The Four Agreements in the back cover; this copy of A New Earth is hers. I like the noes she took.

p.s. don't let that tree in the picture fool you that the temperatures around here are dropping. It was a high of 93º yesterday. I'm more worried that tree is dying of heat stroke, but I think its leaves are changing and falling prematurely because they came back extra early this year due to excessive winter sun.  

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Quiet Morning

p.s. wanted to let you know that if you sponsor The Tale of a Mermaid this month 20% of proceeds will go to the non-profit Mauli Ola. Contact me if you're interested!

Here's a little more about The Mauli Ola Foundation, a really special organization:

The Mauli Ola Foundation began as a group of surfers who banded together in 2007 to promote education and awareness of genetic disease, and to increase research for genetic disorders. They also host events that use surfing as a natural treatment for people with cystic fibrosis.

Monday, September 8, 2014

Norbert and San-o

I decided this board needed a new paint job. 
Daphne's for dinner=no camping dishes + good grinds
Scott thinks this looks like a dragon roaring fire :)
I think the Dakine sticker is a little crooked 
neck beard to protect my ears from the wind (scott was very embarrassed)

In the past when we've set our tent up, I've been in some half daydream following what Scott tells me. But one night when we were in Oregon, we came back from a hike to find a policeman standing next to our tent. He said we had pitched it on private property and we said we were sorry, but that our local friend had told us about the spot. Then he said the owner of the land used to allow people to camp on that cliff above a cove until a girl tied a rope swing to a tree there and landed on a broken stump while testing it out. The girl had to be transported to the hospital along with the stump, he said, and even though she made a full recovery, local law enforcement had stepped in to keep people off the not-so-secret private land. 

That day we had to set up and take down our tent twice, and ever after that I knew exactly how to put it together. This is important because on Friday I had to set up the tent all by myself at this spot called Trails while Scott was still at work. We decided to camp there for one night to surf the new swell from a hurricane called Norbert. A lady was laughing at me with a glass of red wine in her hand because my tarp kept blowing away, but eventually I figured it out. We surfed San Onofre in the morning.

Heavy older men and their twelve year olds were out riding ten toes over the nose all the way to rocks on the beach. Girls were wearing the most stylish wetsuits. There was a Airedale dog standing next to the shower in the morning. I made Scott come and pet him. Almost every wave reformed on the inside. I surfed ok, Scott surfed great. Kinda like the day we got engaged at this same spot :)

Hope you had a nice weekend too! 

board painting notes:
 remove the wax, lightly sand, clean it with acetone, spray paint the whole thing white, spray paint the whole thing tie dye green and yellow, apply 2-3 coats, allow it to dry for a few hours outside (note: this time pictured was a touch-up because I did a crappy job when I originally did this 2-3 years ago). 

Friday, September 5, 2014

Article for Travel Oregon


Before we left on our Oregon road trip, I perused the internet for some advice and information and came upon Travel Oregon. It's a great resource if you're planning to visit. I like the cute, random Oregon mascot on the bike next to the menu. I have an article on there from our trip and Scott took some pictures to go with it. 

You can check it out here > > > > Wild Coast if you want < < < > > > It's similar to the story I wrote on here, just to give you a heads up. 

thanks for the support and thanks Travel Oregon

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Summer Hangover

I decided to make myself an ice bath today after skateboarding. I know one street-style skate trick and you won't believe that I hurt my back doing it because it is so simple. 

Our bathtub had about four spiders in it that I had to wash away before I could use it. I said a prayer for them and whatever they're onto next, then filled the tub with cold water and all the ice that was in the freezer. It looked pretty, but then the ice melted in two minutes and I basically just took a bath in 60º water. 

Taking an ice bath wasn't on my list for the day, but I should just assume that any amount of skating should be followed by some amount of hanging out with ice. 

I've stopped putting "write post" or "write article" or anything like this on my daily agenda anymore. Now I just put "write" and if I do that, I check it off, no matter what came of it.

We have a neighbor that lives above us. I don't know if I've ever mentioned that here. I can hear him now. He plays golf on his deck that is above our kitchen. I find the wiffle balls in the bushes sometimes and toss them back up. One time a bunch of shells from his patio blew down with the wind, but I didn't throw those back because I knew they could break. 

There is only a little bit of Hurricane Marie's energy lingering in the water today, but I hear there's more swell on the way for the weekend. 

I continued my new pattern of riding a variety of boards from my quiver for the end of the swell Labor Day weekend and rode my red single fin. I fell a lot, but got a couple that felt different than any waves I've ridden on my other boards.

I got the Rob Machado Channel Islands single fin at Surfride the day after I threw up on Scott's apartment floor. I am happy they're both still around (but not the throw-up. Scott and all his roommates had to clean it up with a Dirt Devil. They still give me crap about it). 

Right now I'm googling waste-of-time-things like "when is the Encinitas skatepark opening?" and wondering if summer is over simply because the feeling is gone, even if the weather hasn't changed.

I don't know if it's over, but I did see a picture of a black-ball flag the other day on Instagram labeled as a "flashback" and got a little nostalgic, even though I've never been fond of any symbol signifying a block on surfing. In my head I'm thinking of September as a summer hangover month because you're kind of still recovering from all that summer was and wondering in a hazy, unknowing kind of way what will be next. 

"Summer means many different things to different people. To some it might mean the thrill of a high speed catamaran. Others like to float around and soak up a few stray rays. Still others like some kind of inland activity. But for us, it’s the sport of surfing." – Endless Summer

sunset time pictures: Dad
water shots: Scott
pictures of them: me 

Friday, August 29, 2014

Hurricane Marie

I like writing in my journal everyday if only to physically record the date. Putting it down in pencil with my hand makes it seem more like that day is actually happening and that time isn't counting away without me knowing it.

Today, 8/28/14, the morning air is cool. The sun will chase it away soon, but it makes me feel like fall is creeping in, slowly swallowing the summer from the bottom up. 

I drive the coast looking for waves. They're everywhere today, it's just about finding the spot for me. My car has been at the train station the last few days because of a bunch of boring details related to me and Scott getting to work on different days at different times. Before he dropped me off, Scott asked me where I thought I'd surf this morning, since I was out and about now at 6 a.m. with so many options. "Probably at home," I told him and it was true.

When I get to my parent's backyard Kevin is sitting with a towel around his shoulders waiting for Kelly. We talk and stretch and then she arrives, suiting up quickly and waxing her yellow board next to him. I linger and stretch and watch the waves some more. As I descend the stairs to the beach, I can't hear my footsteps over the sound of the waves.

There's a mist hovering about the bluff that makes me feel a little like I'm in a dream. The air, quickly becoming thicker, and the warm water combined with a large swell reminiscent of winter makes it seem that way too.

I paddle out right when a set pours in, but the current pushes me to the spot I'd like to be. There's another guy next to me. I recognize him, but I don't know his name. We both wait anxiously, nervously to see if we're in the right spot for the sets. He takes a few waves right away even though I'm closest to the peak. When I take one, I'm a little late and as the white wash hits me in the back, the nose of my board catches and I tumble over the front. Now I'm determined instead of nervous, which is a more familiar feeling.

I make the next drop and carve around on the wave's big face. Backside cutbacks feel like slicing butter with your feet. I hit the lip on a sucky section. I think I have it, but then my tail releases on the landing and the wave rips my left shoulder around as I grab it for support. I'm glad I hit my arm on the way down though, just to know that I did everything I could to make it. 

I recognize the ocean again now. I'm tempted to say I recognize my ocean again, but I know it's not mine. 

For what seems like most of my life at this point, surfing has been one of my main focuses. But I'm scared lately that I'm coming to the end of that. That in the next season of my life I will focus on family and kids, my kids maybe, and I'll be different. 

My friend Stephanie just had a baby. But she had a dog first. She told me she was really worried that she wouldn't be able to give the dog the same attention after the baby was born. I don't have a dog or a baby, so I don't know how it would feel to try to love both, but I think I understand why she was worried. I think I'm worried I won't be able to love surfing the same when I'm loving so many other things so much. 

But today, out here, I can feel that being a surfer isn't something that goes away. It's a part of who I am, and I know it's actually a bunch of work trying to be someone you're not. So I don't think I'm as scared anymore, wondering about surfing being in my life.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

August Sponsors Described in One Word

This month I've asked all Tale of a Mermaid sponsors to give me one word to describe themselves. What word would you use? I'm having a hard time coming up with one for myself, but I'm leaning towards passionate.


JettyGirl : Authentic // Roxy Daring

French Pemberley Katie : Content // Daphne's : Healthful

Matsumoto Studio  Jen : Innovative Jes : Thoughtful // This, Too Kari: Inquisitive 

Pom Pom : Exploring // DakineQuality

{If you are interested in sponsorship for your blog or business, please contact meThank you all for your continued support!}

Monday, August 25, 2014

Welcome Waters (and company)


I met a dog named after a Grateful Dead song at our community art and music festival this weekend. She was called Maggie, but her full name was Maggie's Farm: Flower of the Sea. 

It was nice having Scott's youngest sister Lindsey and her boyfriend Mike in town for a neighborhood event, but we really spent most of our time at the beach. We haven't had many south swells this summer. San Diego, due to the bend of its coast, gets better, bigger waves in the winter, while swells that come out of the south in the summer have to make an extra effort to come to our shore. But we finally got a bit of SSW swell thanks to a hurricane in Mexico named Lowell. 

Sometimes I wonder if my boards get excited about a new swell too. Like they're all out in the garage listening to me get ready, hoping I'll pick them to bring along for the ride. No one can be sure if that's true or not, but I did make an effort to ride a different board each session since Lowell's waves arrived. I rode my 5'6" squash tail my neighbor shaped for me on Friday, my 5'2" Firewire 'Dominator' model Saturday morning, my 5'0" twin fin Scott shaped Saturday afternoon and my Nezzy quad Sunday morning. Maybe I'll have to give the other boards a chance to feel the summer water later this week when the next big swell arrives. People in the lineup like my friend Todd and all his Finnish snowboard friends were already buzzing about it this morning. Someone said to me "Get stoked! Get freaked out!" Maybe I'll have to ride my 5'10" big wave board. It's been a while.

To wrap up the subject of surfing, one nice thing about this weekend was that pretty much everybody went out and tried it. Lindsey's boyfriend is from New Jersey and hadn't had the chance to surf before and Danielle, my middle sister, and her boyfriend Matt both paddled out Saturday to join Kevin, my dad, me and Scott. It was fun talking about our session together when we got out.

Today I'm icing my shoulders, putting away air mattresses, missing company and looking for my Sonicare toothbrush that I somehow lost in my room. Hope you had a good weekend, too. 

p.s. thank you for all your sweet thoughts for my friend. I am lucky to have this community of kind hearted people who will think happy thoughts for a stranger.
{surfing photos taken by my dad}
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