Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Summer Hangover

I decided to make myself an ice bath today after skateboarding. I know one street-style skate trick and you won't believe that I hurt my back doing it because it is so simple. 

Our bathtub had about four spiders in it that I had to wash away before I could use it. I said a prayer for them and whatever they're onto next, then filled the tub with cold water and all the ice that was in the freezer. It looked pretty, but then the ice melted in two minutes and I basically just took a bath in 60ยบ water. 

Taking an ice bath wasn't on my list for the day, but I should just assume that any amount of skating should be followed by some amount of hanging out with ice. 

I've stopped putting "write post" or "write article" or anything like this on my daily agenda anymore. Now I just put "write" and if I do that, I check it off, no matter what came of it.

We have a neighbor that lives above us. I don't know if I've ever mentioned that here. I can hear him now. He plays golf on his deck that is above our kitchen. I find the wiffle balls in the bushes sometimes and toss them back up. One time a bunch of shells from his patio blew down with the wind, but I didn't throw those back because I knew they could break. 

There is only a little bit of Hurricane Marie's energy lingering in the water today, but I hear there's more swell on the way for the weekend. 

I continued my new pattern of riding a variety of boards from my quiver for the end of the swell Labor Day weekend and rode my red single fin. I fell a lot, but got a couple that felt different than any waves I've ridden on my other boards.

I got the Rob Machado Channel Islands single fin at Surfride the day after I threw up on Scott's apartment floor. I am happy they're both still around (but not the throw-up. Scott and all his roommates had to clean it up with a Dirt Devil. They still give me crap about it). 

Right now I'm googling waste-of-time-things like "when is the Encinitas skatepark opening?" and wondering if summer is over simply because the feeling is gone, even if the weather hasn't changed.

I don't know if it's over, but I did see a picture of a black-ball flag the other day on Instagram labeled as a "flashback" and got a little nostalgic, even though I've never been fond of any symbol signifying a block on surfing. In my head I'm thinking of September as a summer hangover month because you're kind of still recovering from all that summer was and wondering in a hazy, unknowing kind of way what will be next. 

"Summer means many different things to different people. To some it might mean the thrill of a high speed catamaran. Others like to float around and soak up a few stray rays. Still others like some kind of inland activity. But for us, it’s the sport of surfing." – Endless Summer

sunset time pictures: Dad
water shots: Scott
pictures of them: me 


  1. I'm counting up those different surfboards Devon! I love that they are in your "quiver", it makes you sound like you're in Robin Hood. Well done for trying an ice bath, I do hope your back is better now. Those skate parks are lethal! I'm really not sure I could make myself get in an ice bath, I am a complete wimp when it comes to cold water. It takes me five minutes to take the plunge in the sea. My other half is always golfing about the place here - up and down the landing, along the bedroom floor, in the garden. He's smashed a full length mirror before, and cranged a few over the fence. The littlest boy has golf clubs too, but he's only really allowed to play with the light balls. He'll swing at a real ball if he can get away with it though, and then watch out.

    1. Being the sentimental packrat I am, I have kept all the surfboards I've ever had. I don't really regret it though, as just like a photograph they can take me back to certain times. I think about your son and his knee injury often and hope he is healing after his fall at the skatepark. Are you the kind to wade into cold water slowly? This makes it most especially painful, but I'm sure you are aware. Your stories about the golfing going on at your place made me laugh.

  2. Very impressed with the ice bath as I'm a complete wimp when it comes to cold water. :) That golf story made me laugh as I have those wiffle golf balls, my neighbors look at me like I'm crazy for hitting them around the yard. And of course always enjoy seeing your photos!

    1. I don't know if I can get complete credit for the ice bath since the ice was gone by the time I got in. I've never been very interested in golf, but picturing you doing it in your yard sounds cool & fun and relaxing. Maybe I should reconsider. Thanks AM.

  3. i don't know if i can handle ice bath. and since i live in tropical country, i never have such sentiment with summer.

    1. truly an Endless Summer for you over in Bali!


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