Friday, May 2, 2014

Heat Waves and Fishing

It was 90ยบ at the beach the last two days. The record high for San Diego in May was beaten by 15 degrees.

The thing I should probably be doing is lying somewhere cool and quiet, elevating my sore knees thanks to all that skateboarding this past weekend. But I don't know how to stay away. And really, it wasn't that cool anywhere but the bathroom floor anyways.

I wish I could have said to the weather, "Now, just a minute, what are your plans for the future? And if not for all of the future, at least for the summer?" But I don't waste my breath because I don't think the weather knows either.

Nature seems much more content not having control over things than I've ever been.

The waves were small, but sometimes those are my favorite kind. I can ride my leashless fish and not have to share waves with almost anybody. I sort of hate that I would list not having to share something so beautiful as a perk of being out when it's bad, but it's the truth sometimes. Maybe everyone has that feeling about something. 

I did share my surfboards with the girls I coach, though. We brought down a single fin, a twin fin and a mini-longboard between the three of us and took turns riding them.

I was nervous to suggest this at first because I really didn't want the girls to have a frustrating, falling-off, swimming after your board kind of session and then be convinced surfing unfamiliar equipment was a bad idea. But falling can be good sometimes and I'm glad I went with my gut feeling in the end because that was probably the best coaching session we've had. That 5'0" fish Scott made me for my birthday? He and I are the only ones who have ever ridden it. But now here are two perfectly sized people who can enjoy it as well. And they should.

If the girls come back to this spot where we practice someday when they're 65, I want them to remember that they had a good time when they were out here learning about surfing, if nothing else.

I wish I would always trust my instincts. This is not the case, however, as nearly immediately after this wonderful surf session, I hit the override button and put my foot in my mouth. I think that is the right saying for texting your sisters "boyfriend advice" they don't need.

I think I come to this realization often (it's too bad I never remember it until after some self-loathing): No one does everything right all the time. Or at least, mistakes never seem like a positive part of life. But they can be. I saw two birds fighting over a big fish while I was surfing. I thought, "Why don't they know how to agree to split it in half so they can each have some?" Instead, the fish dropped down into the water and birds were left with nothing. Maybe the birds will learn to share or maybe the fish was meant to live. I think so.

I hope you have a great weekend!
{p.s. Scott's board is made by our friend Manny from Mandala Custom Shapes


  1. I enjoy living the beach life through you. Muy bien!

  2. I always have a hard time going with my instincts, too. I wish I would follow my gut more, but I second guess myself way too much. I'm glad your surfing lesson went well! I bet those girls love having you for a teacher and will always have fond memories of riding the waves with you. I try to say and do the right thing all the time, but you're right that no one do that all the time. We're all human and make mistakes. I hope you had a great weekend, Devon!

  3. I could use a heat wave around my parts! It snowed again yesterday! I think it's official we're going to skip right over spring and head into summer. I love the beach like you and was practically raised in the water. Ever since my disability however I haven't been able to enjoy it to the same extent. It's a goal of mine to find a way to surf with my disability. Hope your doing well!

    1. Ross, sending good to you and your family. You are strong and you can do it!

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