Friday, April 11, 2014

Surf Footage, Tequila, Success!


I was never really worried that this trip would suck. Of course, when the airplane went missing a few weeks ago, I tried not to watch the coverage on TV since I wasn't sure what good could come from it and it definitely might have encouraged my mind to wander towards its unreasonable side pre-takeoff. 

Best friends who used to live together, but now only see each other every few months (if we're lucky)... would things be different? Maybe, but I wasn't that concerned about that either. Some things you choose and some things you don't. Basia and I chose to be friends, we chose the cities where our adult lives would begin, but we wouldn't choose to let things change between us. We never had to talk about it for me to know that.

Bad weather? That didn't cross my mind at all.

There was one thing though, that I thought stood a chance kill my buzz some days. 

Getting good surf footage: my joy, my misery.

Sometimes I try to make up my mind about whether it's better to re-live a good wave on video or in my head. Usually most people surf better in their mind's anyway, so it might be the call to store the memories there. But then, sometimes it doesn't seem enough. I want to see the wave from another perspective, hold it in my hands, bring it home with me and share it with other people I know would feel the stoke. 

And then there's the fact that acquiring good surf footage can be so unattainable. Having someone to film you with the right equipment and the proper attention; having good waves and rousing crowds, the right mindset. If it all comes together and you get really memorable waves you can relive, it's kind of intoxicating. When it doesn't, I begin to wonder if I should return some of the confidence surfing's allowed me to borrow from time to time. 

The first day of the trip, I got some good waves on film. The other days, I got less. But, whatever. I have the rest of my life to surf, let's hope. The Sea of Cortez was just an hour away. Basia promised to shake my head and blow a whistle in my face while I drank a shot of tequila. The Pescadero skatepark was hiding somewhere in the Cerritos hills and if I wasn't going to feed the stray dogs the Pedigree bones I bought from the Soriana, I'm not sure anyone else would have. 

On the last day, Scott and I surfed all morning and Phil filmed us. I fell a bunch. My last wave I thought was good, turned out to be pretty uninteresting when played back, but we swam in the pool at the local hotel and ate quesadillas and it didn't matter. There was even the elusive Wi-fi we hadn't used since home. One thing we didn't have though, was surf pictures. Scott lugged the water housing from San Diego to Mainland Mexico to Cabo, and so far, for nothing. So even though we were tired and the waves were bad, we knew what we had to do. 

After some more closedout, scary waves that had me worrying about breaking my neck, I told Scott I was going in after one more. He popped up from a long hold-down and agreed. 

One thing I had been working on at this surf spot all week was my backside off-the-lip. When a left came to me, I knew no matter how blasé I was about my surfing performance, that my adventure in Mexico only stood to be enhanced by making this one last turn. 

When I was showering off afterwards, Scott came to tell me he had missed it, but he was lying :)



{+photography by Scott
+accommodations by The Osprey San Pedrito}

Trip Tale Index

13 comments:

  1. Those are nice waves! I want to hone my surfing skills. I really need to practice!

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    1. Hey Gab, thanks. Having something new to practice is so fun! have a good time out there!

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  2. These pictures are amazing! You look awesome! Glad you got some good footage and got to hang out with your friends:) Have a great weekend!

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    1. Gracias Kari :) Hope you had a good weekend too

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  3. So beautifully written Devon, and with fantastic pictures. I can feel the exhilaration from here. How lovely that you and your friend are still so close. I have a very close friend who moved to Jamaica, and I only see her for one day a year, and sometimes only every two years. But we are still best friends and we chat and chat all day as if we see each other every week. Hope you and Scott have a good weekend, and well done on that backside off-the-lip, it looks amazing.

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    1. I'm happy to hear you and your friend are so close still, too. Thanks for the props on the backside off-the-lip, haha :)

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  4. Girrrrl, look at you go! That picture is fantastic!

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    1. Thanks Julia! Hope you've been well!

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  5. Girl, this is CRAZY: I was at that beach two weeks ago! My friend's boyfriend's family has a house on the other side of that house and the Cerritos Beach Club. We would ride quads across the beach and go lay out in the sun and get massages. I tried boogie boarding one day with little success. Some of those waves were intense!

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    1. I was there two weeks ago too! During the first week of April. That's so cool you know someone that has a house there. That area is really special, although, you're right, the shore break waves were kind of intimidating. Scott lost his swim fin to them!

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    2. We were there at the same time then! Might have even been at the beach club at the same time! The whole time I was there I kept trying to figure how I could move to Mexico and live there forever. So pretty and relaxing.

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