Monday, December 9, 2013

The Salt Creek


It was a long way down the hill, but it's always been that way. There were probably two short boarders per square foot, but it's always been that way too. Not much has changed about Salt Creek since I learned to surf there and, of course, this is ok with me. I rode on the open face of a wave for the first time there. That moment made me realize I would never have to stop playing as long as I had surfing. 

I stabbed my eye, got stitches in my knee, got chased by a seal, got stood up by a date, learned about barrel riding and surfing backside and the world of localism all there. 

It's comforting to be able to return to a place that holds such significance in my life. 
If I go back to my Nonny and Poppy's house now, I know it's not going to be the same. They won't be home, of course, and there's probably granite counter tops and stainless steel appliances where there used to be blue tile and a bread box.

I remember one of my first summer sessions at Creek. I dropped in on this guy named Tim and his fins went right through the bottom of my board. This local girl Jenny, who was a badass if I ever met one, forced him to go in and help me fix it. He took my board to his house and gave it the crappiest repair job I've ever seen. I smile every time I see that board sitting in my parent's garage with it's urethane foam-filled ding. Funny thing is, one time Scott had some guys over for a surf and one of them said, as he looked at a picture of me surfing, "I ran that girl over once." At least almost ten years later Tim's seen proof that I'm not a total kook anymore. 

The thought that coming here allows me to return to memories washed over me as I went under for my first duck dive at Salt Creek yesterday. 

p.s. some funny old journal entries that allow me to relive old memories too 
"I sliced my knee that was then bandaged by a (cute) lifeguard…"
"I touched a seal when I was paddling! I was getting pretty annoid…" //
Danielle's notes in my journal: "Seal: 'I'm going to eat you, write that in your log!'"  //
"Agression/Fear Factor: a little timid after the whole 'eye thing'"
…funny that I stabbed myself in the eye and cut my knee within two weeks in July of 2004.

16 comments:

  1. Beautiful pictures as always - it's hard to think of the beach when it's so cold over here lol! And I love your journals, they're nearly 10 years old. How neat!

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    1. You finally got your cold Christmas haha! The journals, ha! Funny that only 10 years ago I couldn't spell the word annoyed :)

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  2. funny and real. This is one of my favorite blogs to read. This post makes me happy about life and experiences.

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  3. I just love your surfing journals, how wonderful they are. And how wonderful to have a youth that included cute lifeguards. I love that you had photos in your journal as well. Today's photos are beautiful as always. Yesterday I was longing to see the sea, and today, here you are with your amazing pictures. Happy sigh. Hope you have a good week Devon.

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    1. That journal was the original "mermaid chronicles" I guess (or the tale of a mermaid ;) I'm so happy to have given you the glimpse of the sea you needed. You always give me a glimpse of a gorgeous garden that makes me feel relaxed.

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  4. haha,
    thank you for sharing a fragment of your life. this place must holds lots of memories for you.

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    1. more memories than I thought, until I was back there a few days ago :) Thanks Niken

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  5. Such pretty pictures Devon. Sounds like you need to be careful at Salt Creek. No more injuries. Haha. :)

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  6. I love that you can still play!

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  7. I love reading about a place that holds so much significance for you. Sometimes it's hard to put these things into words, but you did a beautiful job taking me through your memories. I love the symbolism of the stainless steel appliances and granite counter tops in place of the blue tile and bread box. You stay safe, though! Too many injuries too close together:)

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    1. Thanks Kari! You are so sweet. I have a feeling you would have loved my grandmother's (now) vintage kitchen, am I right? :)

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  8. ohmygosh!
    Who doesn't love an old journal entry??!!
    I have tons I need to sit down and delve through...
    sadly enough for my 4 year old daughter, she'll never read them.
    [don't want to give her any ideas ;)]
    NO, but really...
    don't you just love the memories certain places evoke.
    and the way you'll NEVER forget certain things.
    Always a pleasure Devon!!

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    1. Old journal entries are almost always good for a laugh! You can save yours until your daughter is older. I'm sure she'll appreciate them so much some day! I do love the memories certain places evoke. That's why I'm always happy when places stay kinda the same :) Thanks for the sweet note Misty. It is alway appreciated!

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