I check to make sure no one is taking off down the line.
I'm kind of nervous to have Chris shooting photos of me.
I put it in my mind that I was going to shoot with him since I began reading Jetty Girl in the early 2000s and here I was determined not to blow it.
The wave that comes to me opens up perfectly and by some miracle, no one else is around to paddle for it.
The sound of the train whistle drifts across the water with the off-shore winds as I stand up.
I immediately focus on the last section of the wave that is breaking towards me now. If I do something special with this wave, it will stay with me in more ways than just the photos from Chris' camera.
As I hit the lip with all my energies, the wave explodes back up at me, but the whitewash lets me free.
There's children playing at a playground, weird seaweed-eating tractors and policemen on the beach, but I don't notice any of this until I get out of the water because I am so focused on the ocean.
I run back to my car to avoid an expired meter ticket and drive away from Oceanside thinking happy thoughts.
Frontside Off-The-Lip Tutorial
Step 1: Drop into the wave and gain as much speed as you can by pumping across its open face. The more speed, the more powerful your turn will be.
Step 2: Time your bottom turn so that you are at the bottom of the wave, laying into your toe-side rail, just as the lip or whitewash is appearing. A strong bottom turn is key because it will give you the drive you need to make it up the face of the wave.
Step 3: Make sure you have your back foot pushing towards the tail. Begin to move up the face of the wave and aim your upper body at the lip.
Step 4: Hit the lip of the wave as high as you can.
Step 5: Turn your upper body towards the beach and spot your landing. Distribute your weight evenly between both feet. If it's a steep section then you are really going to have to stomp on the tail to keep from pearling (nose diving).
Photos by : Chris Grant