Wednesday, September 25, 2013

The Off Season


     This morning I spent approximately 20 minutes reading Surfer magazine in bed before doing anything else. I usually get up and make Scott's lunch (PB and J everyday), but on Wednesdays he has half day and comes home for lunch while I work from home. So there I stayed in bed and in my pajamas until it felt like time to surf. I'm predicting socks weather any morning now, but I was happy to walk barefoot to the beach for at least another day. 

    When I got there, it was apparent the wind had beat me by a few hours. I think it made its way around the whole county before sunrise. West winds too, not the eastern ones that blow the tops off of waves and make you feel like you're in a surf movie or under a magical spell. This didn't matter to me, though. I like a good variety in my surf sessions and some wind-blown unpredictable mushburgers feed my surf craving just as well as some glassy five footers do some days. The best part is, nearly no one was out and this might be my favorite surf condition of all (right behind surfing with family and close friends, of course). Somedays you just need the solitude a solo session can bring and today was that day for me. 

     I wore my 2/2mm spring suit for what might be one of the last times this year. Even though the water didn't have a wintery bite, it was sure starting to cool down. Kinda like someone had dropped a few ice cubes into the pacific over night. Seaweed strands were wrapping around my legs and leash like ribbons do around a little girl's pony tail. I swear my shadow seemed darker too, although I think that's only because the sun was so bright overhead. I couldn't see it as I made my way over the ridges and bumps in the wave's faces, but I knew it was back there following me as I sailed towards the sun. 

     Sitting in the ocean really makes me feel the change in the seasons. Southern California's are pretty subtle, but out in the water I feel they are unmistakable. I feel like a little seasonal thermometer soaking out there, deciding with my bare legs if it's really fall or not. My legs said it was fall today and the deserted beach and lack of airplane ads said it was the start of the off season; which is my favorite one of all to be a surfer. 

25 comments:

  1. Checking in from Minnesota....just letting you know I'm still reading and living vicariously through your beautiful descriptions of life as a mermaid! :)

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    1. Hi! My mom's born in Minnesota. I'm sorry to say I haven't spent any time there... yet. I bet it's really pretty right now. I'd sure love to see more trees changing color around here. Thanks for the sweet note and thanks for reading!

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  2. it really cooled off quick today. i'm not ready to let go of summer yet!

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    1. I think it's supposed to be back in the high seventies this weekend. So, there's that :)

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  3. No more "Freeze the Fat" airplane ads up here, either.

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  4. Lovely Devon, I can feel the subtle change in the season from your beautiful words. Summer made a brief return here yesterday, but however warm the days, the evenings and mornings are darker and cooler and damper. It's how it should be. I'm happy to hear that Scott has the same sandwich every day. My little people always want the same thing each (all different, but each has the same every day). And sometimes I feel that I should get them to experiment, but I'm happy to have the same thing always too. My thinking is that once you've found your favourite why would you have anything else?! So I'm glad I'm not alone. Hope you have a good day.

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    1. I guess people are creatures of habit at times. I think our favorite things are comforting too. Happy to hear you and yours boys have found your favorites :)

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  5. Ahh, your blog always makes me miss our coastal home away from home.. My whole family is down, my dad has even taken a pc down- think if they can do work down there they'll never come back..
    Anyway I mostly commented to ask if you listen to Tame Impala- listened to it on the drive to P.E. (my first visit) this weekend, reminds me of old school surf music:) Oh and visit Jeffreys Bay too- a fairly famous S.A. surf spot:)

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    1. Hey Carey, the beach is a hard place to leave once you're settled. I don't think I have listened to Tame Impala, but now I'm curious. I'd love to visit Jeffrey's Bay someday! Although, I hear there are lots of sharks!

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    2. Hmm, not sure about the sharks, I guess its just best to surf where there are shark nets. (except Cape town- great whites are scary!!)

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  6. I say it's the get your surf on season.

    He. He. Feeling punchy.

    Love the photos...and the seasonal reflections.

    Cheers!

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  7. Oh girl, LOVE your beach pics! I so love the ocean and love how much you appreciate getting to live so close. Enjoy every moment.

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    1. Thanks so much Sam! I'm glad you have a love for the ocean too!

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  8. Scott has great taste! I, too, had an affinity for bringing PB&J sandwiches for lunch every day. I brought one to school every day from 1st grade all the way through senior year of college:) And you know what? I never got tired of it:) Actually, I looked forward to it:) These days, I've switched things up a bit and have a ham and turkey sandwich for lunch every day. I say when you find something you like, stick with it. That's so nice that you make his sandwich for him--I'm sure he appreciates that it's made with love:) That's how I make Wade make my sandwich, too, sometimes. It's awesome how in tune you are with the ocean. These pictures are beautiful:)

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    1. I never had the PB&J thing, but I definitely agree that it's nice to stick with an old favorite. That's nice Wade makes sandwiches for you too :)

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  9. This makes me long for the ocean!
    My husband and I (mostly him, I'm still learning) surf the Great Lakes, up here in Canada (Georgian Bay, off Lake Huron is our home). We've already moved into our winter suits, although this week the spring suits might be able to come back out, since it's warmed up again so much!
    I love the was that you wrote this post. The solitude, the feelings, the importance that surfing has in your life. It's so reflective of the feelings that float around our home too. I can't wait for that perfect wind day, when the sun is shining, and we're out in the water alone with God and nature.

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    1. Surfing the Great Lakes!? I have total respect for you *fist pump*. That sounds both awesome and freezing at the same time! It's so neat that even in two entirely different bodies of water that our feelings about surfing are so similar.

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  10. I love the way you write.
    You have such inspiration right there outside your door.
    I have pine trees.
    and sand - but not ocean sand - Lexington sand.
    We've done a lot of the windows open days.
    I love them the most!

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    1. Thanks Misty. Sometimes I do long for the forest. Ours are quite a drive away. I love window-open kinda days too. I love the smell of the fresh air.

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  11. Sounds like your weather is starting to change just like mine! Just last week we were taking in sunny hot temperatures. Today we are wearing winter jackets. Another couple of weeks and we'll have snow on the ground.

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    1. I like this little change in weather. In fact, I think I needed it. So jealous of your snow! How fun :)

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  12. Hi Devon - just wanted to know that I love your blog and am really inspired by your journey! Your writing is beautiful :) And although it's always sad to say goodbye to summer, it's always nice to welcome a new season!

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    1. Thank you Caroline for you very sweet words :)

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