Friday, November 30, 2012

Emma Wood

     The other day I surfed this spot in Ventura called Emma Wood. Mostly, I surfed like crap and all these groms kept taking waves from me. Then I got this good one Scott took pictures of. Then I fell on a closeout left that wedged up in front of me and knocked me head first off my board. I was eating sand. It tasted like fish and salt and dirt. The next morning I woke up with a sore neck and couldn't get out of bed. 
I'm mostly feeling better now. 
the end.

14 comments:

  1. Oh jeez... be careful my friend! I hope you feel much much better soon

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  2. Wow,great pictures! Hope you feel alright :) You areso brave to surf these waves!

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  3. Nica pics...
    Get better soon..
    And try to get your grains(of sand) elsewhere.;-)

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  4. Next time you hit that wave, you'll get it!

    After you heal, you'll know those waves :-) Maybe not right away, but eventually!

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  5. yuck to eating sand. hope you'll be recovered soon!

    just a few weeks ago i was in bali, and there's a ripcurl surfing event. it was really cool and there were lots of surfers from around the world. and i immediately remembered you :)
    i wish you & Scott could be there.

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  6. Oh no! Darn that Emma Wood...go back and kill her. Haha.

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  7. The pictures turned out great but I hope you're feeling way better by now. Be careful out there!
    Happy weekend!
    xoxo, The Brazilian Way of Life]
    www.camilagcarneiro.blogspot.com.br

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  8. Pictures are amazing!
    I've always admire cool surfer girls! So rad :)

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  9. Ouch... glad you are feeling better and that you didn't get seriously hurt. I am sure it's a gamble anytime you're heading to shallow waters.

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  10. Sounds painful! At least you got some pretty cool pictures out of that wave!! :D Hope you are feeling better!!

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  11. Yikes, guess it comes with the territory. A bad day surfing is still better than a good day doing anything else though, right?

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