|love at first sight|
|my first wave, circa 1994. Pushed by dad.|
| my sister Danielle and I testing out my dad's new board|
tubed with sisters and Simba
|Junior high or early high school. I insisted on riding this foamy since it was a shorter than my dad's boards. I told him "I want to be a short boarder and I want to be a professional". Still working on both. Oh, and now I love longboarding!|
|my first surf contest in 2003. I got 2nd...out of 3 girls|
|soulmate surfers 2005|
|National Scholastic Surfing Association championships 2007|
I used to feel I came to the ocean so that I would learn more about it; The waves, the currents, the tides, the swell direction, the inhabitants. As I was walking home from surfing last night, I realized that I really come to the ocean because it teaches me about who I am. I love surfing so much. In surfing, I see myself. I see every shade of who I am.
That's what I wanted to write down today, so that someday I can read these feelings again. Because in my life, that statement has significance. It's one of the main things that stands out in all that I have discovered so far.
I'm curious, what is something in your life that has helped you understand yourself?
*The song I posted is a Jack Johnson cover of a Jimmy Buffett song. It doesn't totally apply to my life...you know the drug smuggling and all... but it has got to be one of my top three favorite songs ever. I sing this song when I'm surfing (by myself) at least once a week. Weird, I know.