Wednesday, June 6, 2012

My Relationship with the Ocean through the years

Pirate Looks at 40 by Jack Johnson on Grooveshark
love at first sight

my first wave, circa 1994. Pushed by dad. 
 my sister Danielle and I testing out my dad's new board


tubed with sisters and Simba
Junior high or early high school. I insisted on riding this foamy since it was a shorter than my dad's boards. I told him "I want to be a short boarder and I want to be a professional". Still working on both. Oh, and now I love longboarding!
 my first surf contest in 2003. I got 2nd...out of 3 girls
soulmate surfers 2005
National Scholastic Surfing Association championships 2007
lately

     I used to feel I came to the ocean so that I would learn more about it; The waves, the currents, the tides, the swell direction, the inhabitants. As I was walking home from surfing last night, I realized that I really come to the ocean because it teaches me about who I am. I love surfing so much. In surfing, I see myself. I see every shade of who I am.
     That's what I wanted to write down today, so that someday I can read these feelings again. Because in my life, that statement has significance. It's one of the main things that stands out in all that I have discovered so far.

I'm curious, what is something in your life that has helped you understand yourself?

*The song I posted is a Jack Johnson cover of a Jimmy Buffett song. It doesn't totally apply to my life...you know the drug smuggling and all... but it has got to be one of my top three favorite songs ever. I sing this song when I'm surfing (by myself) at least once a week. Weird, I know.

14 comments:

  1. That is a seriously good question that I'm not sure I know the answer to. I think moving away from home and going to a college where I knew zero people really helped me understand who I am and what I want. But now, 5 years after graduation, I think it might be living in New York and essentially fighting for my life everyday. Not in the literal sense. But having to be unique so that I stand out.

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  2. Love your pictures. And this is a great question. For me I think it my father passing. It changed everything in my life.

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  3. Love all the pictures!!!
    What made me feel like me was finding poetry. Haven't been doing it too much lately though.. I should!

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  4. oh i LOVE looking back at these pictures!!! this is too fun (:

    you and the ocean have been buddies since you were a wittle baby! (:

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  5. I had never heard Jack's version of this song thank you for linking it. I've always been a HUGE fan of Jimmy's version since I was a wee kid. My mother was a huge Jimmy fan.

    I loved this post too. I guess currently the one activity I think has really helped me get back to my roots and in touch with me is kayaking. Being on the water, in the creeks, in the wilderness reminds me of being really young and tromping through the woods where I lived. I never came in until the sunset and I Love and miss that.

    Thanks for the reminder! :)

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  6. I think the ocean must be an awesome thing to identify with so much. I'm a little ... just a little envious. :) I don't think theres anything in my life quite yet that defines me as much as that.

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  7. Hi Devon! I just found your blog through Jenny's and couldn't subscribe fast enough. Seriously, you are a girl after my own heart! We share a love for the ocean - I've written about wanting to be a mermaid :) - and a passion for life!

    I'm excited to read along and learn more about you; I've only read a couple of your posts and your "About" page, but I already like you very much. :)

    Aloha,
    Angie

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  8. Devon, beautiful photos and I love your epiphany/statement!! Let's see - my faith teaches me to delve deeper, moving away from everything I know and learning to make decisions without others opinions, traveling, living by the water :)

    Ps - I am going to advertise on L.A. and The Bay! Love her blog - thanks for the introduction!

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  9. I dive, but I don't surf. Would love to try it sometime. But I think I'm better under the water than on top of it. you are a rockstar.

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  10. Without a doubt, for me it is/was singing and performing.

    I love those photos of you!

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  11. Nature's funny like that. I had the same feeling about being in the woods, hiking, camping, or just watching. I wanted to learn everything about the plants, the animals, the trails. And recently I discovered that I learned so much about myself through those experiences, and I'm always learning more.

    Loved this photo timeline! It's always fun to see how people came to the place they are today.

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  12. love this. you were born to be a surfer!

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  13. Beautiful thoughts and photos, Devon. Definitely with you on loving the ocean.

    I, like many others here, am not entirely sure the answer to that question yet. However, two defining moments: my mom fighting cancer, and moving to the East Coast (and realizing that as much as I love it, I'm a West Coast girl!) stand out for me.

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  14. @Julia Thank you so much! You are so sweet! I'm sorry to hear about your mom, but I'm glad it helped you understand yourself better. The West coast is the best coast ;) haha so cliche...

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