Monday, October 24, 2011

Dolphin Breath


It was so still and grey on this October day. 
The waves were gone, playing in other seas,
And pelicans flew by quietly.
The ocean had no texture to knock me off my feet.
The water was so clear I could see detail in the reef. 
The cloud cover made me feel like I was in a cozy room. 
I felt warm and content despite the gloom. 
The breath of the dolphin was louder than the sea.
I felt, as I paddled, that the animals were spying on me.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Searching for Satisfaction




  I’ll never be a perfect surfer and I’m really happy about it.


I wrote in my journal one bright morning.
    To be perfect is not the same thing as being satisfied. To me, being perfect at something means one has explored and conquered all that something has to offer. 
    I always want to be searching for more. For searching, it seems, leads to satisfaction while perfection leads to retirement. 
    That is why I search for waves. The craving for the unconquerable is insatiable. I’ve searched for waves around the world and every time the feeling is the same. I leave the water after surfing feeling satisfied, yet yearning for more. I return time and again seeking obstacles that teach me, challenges that strengthen me, opportunities that excite me and views that inspire me. 
    I know I will never conquer the waves and therefore I will always keep searching for the satisfaction that comes from riding them.