Today was a long day. With tasks in almost every category of my life and covering nearly every day on my calendar I knew I needed to take the free time I had at the moment to get into the ocean.
Soaking there at sea and releasing my inner anxieties into it I realized how much I needed surfing in my life. It isn’t the kind of sport that I do to keep myself in shape or get myself outside. These aspects are perks of the passion, but what surfing really does is keep me in touch with who I am. Surfing is a part of my identity now. I begin to feel detached from myself when I am away from it because I have grown up a part of it. In order to find the most complete happiness my heart recognizes that it needs the ocean.