At this point in the trip I had lost track of the date. I couldn’t remember how long it has been since I’d gone a day without recording it in some form. I was beginning to feel like the dreams I had as a child were going to stay in the past, but this trip contradicted that completely. My dreams of exploring an island without restraint, climbing rocks and riding unknown waves were being realized.
There was a point today where we crossed between islands. The wind was blowing 20 knots into the face of our boat. We all picked a spot in the bridge to sit and stayed there. Usually we go from down stairs to upstairs upwards of 15 times fetching drinks, magazines, food and so on. Today everyone stayed put and kept busy by watching the swells break over the bow. It was nearly nauseating, but it was one of my favorite moments from the trip. I felt adventurous and intrepid, like we were doing something bold. Really we were just changing our location to see some new sights, but it felt compelling.
The most daunting part of the expedition came later when we pulled up to a perfect peeling, barreling right hander. It seemed ideal, but that was the problem. I had to surf. How could I pass up this incredible opportunity?