I’ll never be a perfect surfer and I’m really happy about it.
I wrote in my journal one bright morning.
To be perfect is not the same thing as being satisfied. To me, being perfect at something means one has explored and conquered all that something has to offer.
I always want to be searching for more. For searching, it seems, leads to satisfaction while perfection leads to retirement.
That is why I search for waves. The craving for the unconquerable is insatiable. I’ve searched for waves around the world and every time the feeling is the same. I leave the water after surfing feeling satisfied, yet yearning for more. I return time and again seeking obstacles that teach me, challenges that strengthen me, opportunities that excite me and views that inspire me.
I know I will never conquer the waves and therefore I will always keep searching for the satisfaction that comes from riding them.