The second the temperature rose above 70 I kicked my mildew ridden booties to the curb, grabbed my 3/2 and skipped to the beach. It was a beautiful spring week here in San Diego.
When my feet hit the sand, chills ran up my spine. Even though it has only been a few, it has still been months since my feet were in the sand without neoprene surrounding them.
I was out surfing with my Dad today which is one of my favorite things to do. We were sharing waves with a few guys I usually surf with. I had my Go Pro camera on my board facing me, but my dad was the one getting all the video worthy rides. The session felt easy and comfortable. It was a nice wind down to the busy week I had. When waves came to me I took them, but when they were popping up down the beach I watched them as if I were a part of a live surf movie. I took time today to notice their beauty instead of hungrily chasing after them as if I were starving and they were my favorite meal. I let them drop into that special place in my mind I accessed when times were tougher.
Half way through the session I had to slip out of my reverie as one of the guys around us dropped in on my dad and hit his board. It was like being a sleep in the car only to wake up in an accident. Why would my friend do this? My happy thoughts for this seemingly precious moment evaporated into disillusionment. My dad politely asked my friend why he dropped in on him. The man explained that he felt my dad didn’t deserve the wave after he had already had many others before. This claim seemed odd to me since this man surfs out in front of our house daily for hours and catches many waves, just as he had on this particular afternoon.
It was a very awkward moment. My dad apologized for anything he had done to annoy the snake and then paddled a little ways away. My heart sank. I love my dad so much and seeing him experience this distasteful event sickened me. The wave hopper paddled up to me and apologized for yelling at my dad. My expression, I assume, reflected my heart. Sadly I explained what a nice person my dad is, how he would never intentionally offend anyone and how he really only gets to surf once a week on Fridays like these and enjoys this time out in the line up very much. Later the snake tried to give me a wave, but I didn’t take it.
On my last wave in I got a fun little head dip I wished I could call a barrel. It was my best ride, but my best moment happened back on the sand when my dad thanked me for standing up for him.