Friday, December 10, 2010


    The water has been unbearably cold around here! I know it’s Winter and all but for the water to be 53 degrees (fahrenheit) in San Diego in early December is a little shocking. Booties, a full hood and gloves are all becoming a part of my current surf attire. Fortunately with the Winter water comes the Winter swells. We had some nice waves this week from a WNW swell. Above is a picture of me surfing by my house at a spot I call Tikis. It was really good this week. A fast steep takeoff onto fat walls. Surfing in all this gear though is really cramping my style. I look like a ninja, but I feel like a snowman! I’m really craving some warm water waves and fortunately this Winter I get to satisfy this craving. I’ll tell you more about it next time. Until then, happy surfing!