I had originally set out on this voyage because I felt that the playful moments from my childhood were missing from my adult life. I wanted to get away from everything that didn’t evoke inspiration.
I just wanted to awaken my daydreams where I was a reckless adventurer instead of a boring adult. I wanted to play and roam free. Surfing allows me to do exactly this so it seemed appropriate to use it as a means to achieve these feelings daily. As I would soon find out, it shouldn’t, however, be the only way.
One evening I gushed to my father about how much I loved this trip. “It gives me the feelings I want out of life” I explained. A stillness hung between us. I thought he would have filled this silence with some comment relating to how I needed to make a change to my life if I wasn’t finding adventure and joy from what I was doing. Instead, he looked up at me and said
“Everyday is an adventure. You just have to be open to embracing them.”
Prior to this excursion I felt that surfing was one of the only ways I could experience adventure and freedom in an adult world. After listening to my dad’s advice I now realize that I need to recognize and produce pleasures in all life experiences. Every day has potential to be filled with adventure.
I thought this trip would give me perspective on how to change my life. In the end this trip taught me how to change my life perspective.