We didn’t even know if this was a surf spot, but on this swell it became one. After watching the wave break for about half an hour. I casually mentioned that I think I’d like to come back tomorrow and check it out, but that tonight I was going to take it easy. “I’m going” Scott responded. Ugh! My heart disagreed with my mind. I knew this meant that I was going too. Not because he would ever force me, I just knew in my heart I couldn’t pass up this opportunity to surf an unknown wave.
I watched the spot as I put on my wetsuit. The wave was treacherous. Before it turned into anything you could survive it exploded like Niagara Falls onto a fierce rock point. That was intimidating, but what made me the most anxious about this spot had nothing to do with what was above the surface. All I could think about as I paddled 200 meters through thick kelp forests towards the wave was how much I looked and felt like shark food.
When we finally arrived at the spot Scott grabbed a wave right off the bat. I watched as he free fell until his rail grabbed the face and he glided past me with style. I was next. I paddled into the wave and rose to my feet. It was intimidating, but relief found me just as my feet found the wax. Riding the face of this unfamiliar wave felt like a magic carpet ride. It seemed like it should be fictitious. I couldn’t contain my excitement and I let out a little squeal of joy.