Friday, December 10, 2010

Frosty


    The water has been unbearably cold around here! I know it’s Winter and all but for the water to be 53 degrees (fahrenheit) in San Diego in early December is a little shocking. Booties, a full hood and gloves are all becoming a part of my current surf attire. Fortunately with the Winter water comes the Winter swells. We had some nice waves this week from a WNW swell. Above is a picture of me surfing by my house at a spot I call Tikis. It was really good this week. A fast steep takeoff onto fat walls. Surfing in all this gear though is really cramping my style. I look like a ninja, but I feel like a snowman! I’m really craving some warm water waves and fortunately this Winter I get to satisfy this craving. I’ll tell you more about it next time. Until then, happy surfing!

Sunday, November 28, 2010

San Diego to San Francisco-"Thanks"




thanks: fall surf film
    This Thanksgiving Scott and I traveled up the coast of California to camp, surf and visit friends along the way. This video is about an adventure from San Diego to San Francisco. Music: Florence and the Machine; Filming: Scott DeMint, Devon Holloway, Bob Edwards; Editing: Devon Holloway

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Connection and Reflection


    This past week the waves were as good as waves get. Scott and I tried to take advantage of every minute of it by surfing two or three hours each day the swell greeted us. But you know what? I enjoyed surfing more today when it was onshore and three feet. Don’t get me wrong, I like good waves, but I love empty waves that give me an opportunity for escape and reflection. I love surfing knee high side-shore wind swell waves because the main reason I surf is to unlock my undiscovered thoughts. I love to have time out in the ocean to contemplate instead of battling for every wave. More than anything else, surfing fulfills my life best when it allows me to connect with the ocean and myself. 

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Happy Halloween!


    Today Scott and I thought it would be fun to bring our Halloween spirit out to the line up with us. I wore a sorceress outfit (which was rather hard to paddle in since it had very long sleeves!) and Scott wore his Jack Skellington costume. 
Happy Halloween!

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Nonny Bird


    Sometimes your eyes are open but you are looking at the wrong things.
    My grandma Nonny died 5 years ago. I miss her all the time, but lately it hurts more. I spend my dreams looking for her. Scott told me to open my eyes and look at things differently. He said “I’m sure she is here with you still in some way. You just need to open your eyes and see her”. 
    As I sat in my parents’ backyard writing these words a blue bird landed on a bush in front of me. I’d never seen this kind of bird in Southern California before. 
Nonny loved birds.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Diverging Mystic Journey


    The sky breathed a thick mist on us as we paddled over cobalt peaks that rose and fell. My arms seemed too short to scratch into the dense waves. The take off was quick and steep, my head rapidly below my feet. Murky water surrounded me. 
     Away from my neighborhood the waves are unfamiliar, but exciting. Today now seems more dramatic than other days. It diverges from yesterday.

Sunday, September 26, 2010

California Islands-"Wanders in Wonderland"




Wanders in Wonderland.
In the Summer I went on a boat trip with my fiance, Scott, my dad and our friend.  I thought this trip would give me perspective on how to change my life. In the end this trip taught me how to change my life perspective. Music: The Avett Brothers Song: “At the Beach”Filming: Scott DeMint, Jason Ricketts, Devon Holloway Editing: Devon Holloway

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Wanders in Wonderland Preface: Straycation


“All we have is a broken boat” Scott remarked one evening as we drove down the 101. Although our expedition has changed faces, it hasn’t changed our hearts....
    This is the preface to a month long story I will write about my wanderings with friends on an expedition not too far from home.
    Around this time of year I am usually itching to get away from my day to day routine, to dip my feet into foreign waters and saunter across settled sands. This summer, however, Scott and I, along with our friend Jason and my Dad, have opted for a more convenient travel itinerary. We will submerge ourselves in local waters, stray into native lands but delight in unrevealed emotions.  
    We had originally set our sights on a two week escape at sea on our 40 foot sailboat, but when our hopes of finding an engine in time collapsed we turned our smiles on new adventures. There are ways to make your dreams happen even if it’s not exactly how you imagined it. Although our expedition has changed faces, it hasn’t changed hearts. After all, proximity to home never stopped my adventures as a child, why should it stop me now?

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 1: Beautiful Boredom

    Sometimes I sickly miss that feeling of searching for something to do with my time. Now that I have fallen into adulthood, whatever that truly means, I feel I am seeking an absence of routine and predictability so that my mind can wander to undiscovered places. 
    In my childhood I remember many opportunities to daydream. Time to let my thoughts wander and then use the inspiration I found from those wanderings to dictate my daily conduct.  I didn’t realize this until recently, but in my adulthood these moments are fleeting, like a wave washing onto the beach. 
    Really this fantasy of escape from reality is what surfing represents in my life now. For small periods of time during the day I sneak away to what seems like a place from my dreams. To fly, to swim, to enter a land of other beings. A place where I can create and imagine. To conquer things that seem grand, even though they are only small. Surfing makes me feel like a child again. 
    This Summer I have been fortunate enough to take three weeks away from my job as a preschool teacher. With this time my plan is strictly to daydream and then forge plans to chase and catch these dreams. Boredom now suddenly seems like a beautiful word. For in moments where you search for something to do with your time, you can take yourself to a place outside of ordinary existence. That is why the trip I am about to take is a wander in wonderland.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 2: Entrancing Escape


My mind feels uncertain, but my feet feel strong. 
They feel like they’ve been searching for this path all along.
The rocks are sharp, the water is cold.
A little part of me feels like I am again ten years old.
I crawl across the surface like a crab.
I hope that this adventure will not turn out bad.
The sea rushes into the cave like it doesn’t know how to behave.
My heart rushes. 
A little blood out of my leg gushes, but I move on towards the opening on the other side.
This little rock cavern is the perfect place to hide.
I’m finally outside. 
I feel free, though this feeling doesn’t come from being out of the cave’s reach.
I find myself here.


Sunday, July 18, 2010

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 3: Intrepid Curiosity Part 1

     At this point in the trip I had lost track of the date. I couldn’t remember how long it has been since I’d gone a day without recording it in some form. I was beginning to feel like the dreams I had as a child were going to stay in the past, but this trip contradicted that completely. My dreams of exploring an island without restraint, climbing rocks and riding unknown waves were being realized. 
    There was a point today where we crossed between islands. The wind was blowing 20 knots into the face of our boat. We all picked a spot in the bridge to sit and stayed there. Usually we go from down stairs to upstairs upwards of 15 times fetching drinks, magazines, food and so on. Today everyone stayed put and kept busy by watching the swells break over the bow. It was nearly nauseating, but it was one of my favorite moments from the trip. I felt adventurous and intrepid, like we were doing something bold. Really we were just changing our location to see some new sights, but it felt compelling.
 The most daunting part of the expedition came later when we pulled up to a perfect peeling, barreling right hander. It seemed ideal, but that was the problem. I had to surf. How could I pass up this incredible opportunity?

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 4: Intrepid Curiosity Part 2

     We didn’t even know if this was a surf spot, but on this swell it became one. After watching the wave break for about half an hour. I casually mentioned that I think I’d like to come back tomorrow and check it out, but that tonight I was going to take it easy. “I’m going” Scott responded. Ugh! My heart disagreed with my mind. I knew this meant that I was going too. Not because he would ever force me, I just knew in my heart I couldn’t pass up this opportunity to surf an unknown wave.
    I watched the spot as I put on my wetsuit. The wave was treacherous. Before it turned into anything you could survive it exploded like Niagara Falls onto a fierce rock point. That was intimidating, but what made me the most anxious about this spot had nothing to do with what was above the surface. All I could think about as I paddled 200 meters through thick kelp forests towards the wave was how much I looked and felt like shark food. 
    When we finally arrived at the spot Scott grabbed a wave right off the bat. I watched as he free fell until his rail grabbed the face and he glided past me with style. I was next. I paddled into the wave and rose to my feet. It was intimidating, but relief found me just as my feet found the wax. Riding the face of this unfamiliar wave felt like a magic carpet ride. It seemed like it should be fictitious. I couldn’t contain my excitement and I let out a little squeal of joy.
    In the end the session was more than worth it. It was wave riding experience I will never forget. 

Saturday, July 3, 2010

San Diego-"One Summer's Day"




One Summer’s Day
 My Nezzy 5’4” quad and a Go Pro Hero Camera made this video possible. Music: The Avett Brothers, Song: “At the Beach”, Filming: Scott DeMint, Editing: Devon Holloway YouTube Version

Friday, July 2, 2010

Wanders in Wonderland Chapter 5: Perspective


   I had originally set out on this voyage because I felt that the playful moments from my childhood were missing from my adult life. I wanted to get away from everything that didn’t evoke inspiration. 
    I just wanted to awaken my daydreams where I was a reckless adventurer instead of a boring adult. I wanted to play and roam free. Surfing allows me to do exactly this so it seemed appropriate to use it as a means to achieve these feelings daily. As I would soon find out, it shouldn’t, however, be the only way. 
    One evening I gushed to my father about how much I loved this trip. “It gives me the feelings I want out of life” I explained. A stillness hung between us. I thought he would have filled this silence with some comment relating to how I needed to make a change to my life if I wasn’t finding adventure and joy from what I was doing. Instead, he looked up at me and said 
    “Everyday is an adventure. You just have to be open to embracing them.” 
    Prior to this excursion I felt that surfing was one of the only ways I could experience adventure and freedom in an adult world. After listening to my dad’s advice I now realize that I need to recognize and produce pleasures in all life experiences. Every day has potential to be filled with adventure.
    I thought this trip would give me perspective on how to change my life. In the end this trip taught me how to change my life perspective.








Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Engaged



I was wearing gloves with cut-out fingers when Scott proposed. And a bunch of sunscreen. And a turquoise sweatsuit.
And it was my golden birthday.
And my parents were there.
And Dad, Scott and I longboarded for my mom right in front of our beach camp.
And of course, I said yes and cried.



{from my journal 4/28/10}

One day I went walking and I was alone.
It seemed like I didn’t know which way to go.
My feet and mind wondering constantly.
Like a ship at sea sailing aimlessly. 
Sometimes I felt like I couldn’t see.
Sometimes it seemed like I didn’t know who to be.
One day I went walking and there you were.
When I saw your face I knew you were the one to fill that empty space in my heart. 
My companion and friend until the very end. 
I’ve never felt so happy and content in all of my life.