7 a.m. came around the next morning, but where were the epic waves I had dreamed of last night? We arranged for our new amigo Felix to pick us up Friday morning so we could return to the left point we had surfed in Organos. We were hoping to score waves similar to the day before, except with less wind. What we were greeted with instead were 5-7 ft. closeouts since we hadn’t factored in the tides. Oops.
I stood on some fuzzy green grass in front of three nice beach bungalows and sighed as I watched the unridable waves explode onto the rocks. After discussing the conditions and approaching tide Alexis, Roberta and I gathered our things onto the grass and spread out our towels. We each settled on a towel in the grass waiting on the tides. I couldn’t complain because this is exactly the thing that I yearned to do at home. Now that I am no longer a student and have a “nine to five” job (which is really 10-6) I have to take what I can get in the morning, regardless of tides or conditions. Compared to my normal routine this was a luxury.
Our discussion topics during this waiting period ranged from work to surfing to boys and life. I was getting a different satisfaction from this trip than I had imagined.
As our conversation took a break, I uncrossed my cramped legs and laid back on my yellow towel. I looked up at the blue and grey speckled sky and smiled, stretching out my body until my fingers and toes were both pointing. I wasn’t even surfing and I was so stoked. After living by myself for the past few years and primarily hanging out with a bunch of dudes, it was refreshing and exciting to hang around and travel with two really unique, kind and fascinating women. Moments like this separated this trip to Peru from other trips in the past.At around 9 a.m. Roberta and I suited up for the highly anticipated session at Organos and paddled out. I rode across surfaces that turned from tan to whale blue to sea foam green as I passed each unique section. You could ride long enough to hear your thoughts.
Why did I ever fear this generous land? It was teaching me life skills I could not have acquired in my own comfort zone at home. I was afraid to come here because of qualities this place had that I was unfamiliar with. But it was these unfamiliar qualities that were showing me the way to an unsought after enlightenment.