The waves rise and fall around me, but do not break. Surrounded by lobster traps, I sit outside the breaking waves trying to get my head set for what is to come. The horizon is cement gray, the water sapphire blue. My heart beats fast, my eyes blink slowly. I take it all in with each sense.
It is Thursday, October 14th and a large NW swell has brushed in along the coast of California gifting lineups with 6-10 ft. waves. Many times in past Winter seasons I have sat at sea with my heart in my mouth almost disappointed in myself for the fears that I felt. Today, the feeling is different. Today I feel content with myself for overcoming the fears I had felt in the past for waves that rose much higher than my level of confidence.