Riding my fish at home one memorial day weekend. Music: Phoenix; Song: 1901; Filming: Scott DeMint; Editing: Devon Holloway
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Friday, May 22, 2009
It’s finally Summer! Or at least it feels that way. I wore my spring suit in exchange for the old tattered 4/3 I was previously wearing. As I ran into my parent’s yard I wasn’t expecting much as the previous week hadn’t offered waves more than shin high. I saw 1-2 ft. waves with the potential for a larger set as I walked down the grass towards the cliff. I was already out there in my mind. It wasn’t much but it was more than I’d had all week. “I promise it will be fun” I convinced my slightly skeptical Dad.
I ran home to change. I returned from my apartment in my 2/2 with long sleeves. It was the kind of day where you could smell the reef. You know? It smells kind of like a salty rock baking in the sun. “It’s finally Summer!” I thought in my head.
Ridding my 5’0” fish my boyfriend Scott shaped me, I dropped into dark turquoise waist high waves (knee high on everyone else). My dad and I were the only ones out. I smiled as I paddled back. In my head I thought “At least some days still make it seem like this place is a secret”. I licked the salt water off the tips of my lips as I paddled. Right arm left arm, right arm. A nice little peak came to me about mid session. White water began to trickle down its face. I caught it right in front of my dad and did an off-the-lip before his face. I turned back and smiled at him, my mouth turned up like a half moon. It wasn’t just a stoked smile, it was a smile filled with giddy content, tied together with fulfillment.
My dad is the reason I know how to surf. I remember watching him paddle out at San-O as a young child and wondering what it was he was doing out there. He fianlly took me along one day and led me to the passion that has shaped my life into what it is today. He was the reason I was surfing this spot right now. If he hadn’t bought property on this cliff I would have never known of its existence, of this place that has given me so much joy.
I ducked under the 67 degree water and hesitated for a moment before popping back up. I tried to take the water in with every one of my senses. “I feel so happy right now” I thought. It finally felt like Summer.